Archive / January, 2012

Charcuterie

Just like every particular field of interest, food and food preparation has a vocabulary all of its own. While doing research in preparing the recipe for and writing an article about Homemade Pork and Beans in Lukewarm Legumes, I learned a new food term. That food term is Charcuterie.

The word Charcuterie is derived from the French term cuiseur de chair, which means literally “cooker of meat.” Since the 15th century, Charcuterie has been considered part of French Culinary Art. It is also used to describe a shop selling cooked cold meats.

The book Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn is about using the process of Charcuterie to cure various meats including bacon, pastrami, and sausage. It is a great resource on this subject and is highly recommended.

Charcuterie is part of the garde manger’s repertoire of skills which was originally intended as a way to preserve meats before the availability of refrigeration. Today these techniques are used for the flavors produced through the processes.

Fatback, which I used in the recipe for Homemade Pork and Beans, is an important element of traditional Charcuterie. It is a particular cut of meat taken from under the skin of the pig’s back, with or without the skin. In some European cultures it is used to make specialty bacon and is considered a delicacy. At one time in areas where olive trees were difficult to find, fatback was Italy’s basic cooking fat. It provides a rich, authentic flavor for the classic battuto (sautéed vegetables, herbs and flavorings) that forms the basis of many traditional Italian dishes.

Homemade Pork and Beans

Pork and Beans is a well established part in the American diet which has evolved from a simple dish composed of salt pork, cooked beans and pepper to what is, according to the 1975 Better Homes and Garden Heritage Cookbook, the very first convenience food after it became widely available canned. It is also known as a ‘cowboy’ dish, mentioned in the song ‘The Old Chisholm Trail’ with the words ‘Oh, it’s bacon and beans most every day. I’d as soon be a-eatin’ prairie hay.’

Here is my recipe for Homemade Pork and Beans, made from scratch. I think you will like this one – especially for the upcoming cold days of winter.

HOMEMADE PORK AND BEANS

Ingredients
2 c Cannellini Beans (White Kidney Beans), dry
1 t Baking Soda
6 c Water

2 T Extra Virgin Olive Oil

½ lb. Fatback, cubed

1 Bell Pepper, Green chopped
1 med. Onion, yellow chopped
2 cloves Garlic, minced
3 cans Tomato paste (6 oz.)
¾ c Brown sugar
3 T Molasses
3 T Maple syrup
3 t Mustard, dry
¼ c Vinegar, cider
¼ t Liquid smoke

1 T Salt, Kosher

Instructions
Pick through beans to remove any bad beans and debris. Rinse and place the beans in a bowl with 6 cups water, or enough water to cover them completely. Add 1 teaspoon baking soda (this helps to soften the bean skin), stir and allow to soak 6-8 hours or overnight. Presoaking helps lessen the cooking time, but is not necessary to make these beans.

After soaking, rinse beans and place in pot. Cover the beans to one inch above the level of the beans and add two tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Cook on high until boiling. Many recipes instruct you to skim the white foam from the beans, but this is not necessary and actually removes the water soluble protein provided by the beans for this dish. Once they have come to a boil, reduce heat to medium and simmer while preparing and adding the rest of the ingredients.

After adding the rest of the ingredients (except salt) continue simmering (but not boiling) for 60 to 90 minutes, or until the mixture thickens and the beans are tender. Check the pot regularly to make sure the beans have enough water so they don’t dry out. Add salt at the end of the cooking process as it hinders the absorption of water by the beans.

Rich and Creamy Hot Cocoa

There is nothing quite like a hot cup of cocoa on a cold rainy day. Although it wasn’t all that cold in Houston yesterday, it definitely was a rainy day. That made it the perfect time to whip up some cocoa while we listened to the rain coming down and watched through the windows of our solarium the huge raindrops being whipped up by the wind outside.

This recipe makes a nice rich and creamy cup of hot cocoa – just the perfect touch to comfort you while sitting in front of your roaring fireplace. The egg whites and cream make this a really satisfy ‘comfort’ beverage for a cold day.

RICH AND CREAMY HOT COCOA

Ingredients
4 c Milk

6 T Cocoa powder
1 ¾ Sugar, powdered

1 c Cream
2 Egg whites

1 t Vanilla extract

Instructions
Place the milk in a pot and bring to a simmer. Mix together the cocoa powder and powdered sugar. Add to the warmed milk and stir until well combined. Let simmer for a few more minutes.

Hot Cocoa Mixtures

Combine the cream and egg whites in a bowl and whisk until combined. Add the cream/egg white mixture to the simmering chocolate milk while whisking constantly.

Continue to heat until hot, but not boiling.

Serve in preheated (with warm water) ceramic mugs and top off with a dollop of sweetened whipped cream or several miniature marshmallows.

Parmesan Hash Brown Potatoes

One item I love having for breakfast when I can is Hash Brown Potatoes. It is very popular with most of the people I know.

The problem with the way many cooks are used to making Hash Browns is they often become a gray gooey mess because of the starches and liquid in the potatoes. There is a method to making crispy flavorful Hash Browns every time. The secret is after you shred the potatoes to rinse them thoroughly with fresh cool water, allow them to drain completely in a colander, then add in other ingredients to serve as binders for the Hash Brown patties.

Here is my recipe for seasoned Parmesan Hash Brown Potatoes that I think you will like.

PARMESAN HASH BROWN POTATOES

Ingredients
3 Potatoes, Russet medium

2 T Flour
½ c Parmesan cheese
1/8 t Cayenne (Red) pepper
¼ t Paprika
¼ t Salt, Kosher
¼ t Pepper, freshly ground

1 clove Garlic, minced

½ c Oil (for frying)

Instructions
Peel and grate the raw potatoes. Rinse grated potatoes and place in colander to drain.

Mix flour Parmesan cheese and seasonings together and combine with drained shredded potatoes.

Add oil to pan and heat on medium until a shred of potato placed in the hot oil begins to sizzle.

Form seasoned grated potatoes into patties and place in pan with hot oil. Cook five minutes per side, or until golden brown.

After cooking, place patties on plate to drain and sprinkle with salt if preferred.

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